Natural Skincare 101 by Maria Roderick

Natural Skincare 101- DIY Homemade Skincare Products

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For a good portion of my life, I have struggled with keeping my skin in balance.  In adolescence I was embarrassed by acne spots, occasional cystic acne and had dry flaking skin in other spots. I stripped my skin with harsh cleaners and chemical loaded treatments to deal with problem spots and oil-free moisturizers – thinking oils were bad for my skin. I thought that once I was in my 20s my acne and skin issues would be behind me. Unfortunately, that was not the case.  That is when I began learning about Essential oils, plant oils, natural clays, herbs, and all their benefits for the skin. I began making my own skincare products and using natural clay masks to heal, moisturize, cleanse, and balance my skin.  Now I am well into my 40s, I still experience hormone related breakouts and deal with age related skin concerns such as wrinkles and sun damage, but I am well equipped to treat my skins needs.
Herbs and essential oils have skin-beneficial properties that you can utilizes for your skincare needs at home. These properties come in the form of flavonoids, tannins, mucilage, antioxidants, resins, acids, proteins, and volatile oils. Depending on the plant, they can originate in flower petals, leaves, bark, roots, or stems. 
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In this post you will discover the benefits of simple, limited ingredient skin care products, and how to make and apply them at home. Incorporating natural yet effective products into your routine is an easy and attainable practice for healthy skin. For each product I have included recipes and suggestions for various skin types and conditions. You may simply use these recipes or customize your recipe using the ingredients listed according to their properties and your needs. I encourage you to get creative and try your hand at blending up your own recipes I am sure your results will be amazing! Always seek out organic, cold pressed ingredients for face and body applications. These recipes have about a 1 year shelf life but should provide about a 6 month supply of daily application. 

Skincare for All Skin Types
Perfect for all skin types, a skincare regime using natural chemical free ingredients packed with antioxidants and vitamins can benefit various skincare needs. After use, your skin is balanced, nurtured and radiant. Your skin will feel soft and smooth to the touch. Also, your skin is primed for makeup during the day, and sleep at bedtime.  

​First let us learn about some ingredients, their actions, and benefits for the skin. Choosing the right ingredients for your personal Skincare needs is key for great results.
 Essential oils are concentrated plant essences. They are typically extracted by steam distillation. They are concentrated and generally too strong to use directly (neat) on the skin. The ‘oil’ in the world essential oil refers to volatile plant oil that can evaporate into the air.

CARROT ESSENTIAL OIL daucus carota - cell regenerative, Wound Healing, Good For Mature Skin, Eczema, broken capillaries, scar tissue. antiaging. Avoid during pregnancy.
CEDARWOOD (ATLAS) ESSENTIAL OIL cedrus atlantica- Acne, oily skin, Astringent action Causing contraction of the tissues, binding. Influences, the vital contractility of cell walls, condenses the tissues, making them denser and firmer, and arrests discharges, good for Psoriasis, softening to skin. Potentially irritating at high levels.
CHAMOMILE (German & Roman) ESSENTIAL OIL - Antibacterial, Anti-inflammatory, Good for Acne, Eczema, Psoriasis, dry & itchy skin, wound healing, broken capillaries. Avoid during early pregnancy for Roman Chamomile only.
CYPRESS ESSENTIAL OIL Cupressus sempervirens- Antiseptic, Astringent: Contracts, tightens and binds tissues, reducing secretions or discharges, stops bleeding, Acne, oily skin, wound healer, broken capillaries. Avoid during pregnancy.
FRANKINCENSE ESSENTIAL OIL Boswellia carteri- Astringent: Contracts, tightens and binds tissues, reducing secretions or discharges., Regenerating, Wound Healing, Acne, ant inflammatory, mature skin, wrinkles, helping formation of scar tissue, Eczema, blackheads, soothes dry itchy skin, Encouraging growth of skin cells. Avoid during pregnancy.
GERANIUM ESSENTIAL OIL pelargonium graveolens - Antibacterial, Astringent, Antiseptic, Balancing, Fungicide, stops bleeding, Wound Healing Good for Dry or Oily skin, Combination Skin, Acne, Eczema, Hormone related Skin issues, Itchy Skin,
HELICHRYSUM ESSENTIAL OIL helichrysum italicum - Anti-inflammatory, Regenerating, Rejuvenating, helping formation of scar tissue, Encouraging growth of skin cells, Wound Healing, Good for Acne, Eczema, chronic dermatitis, burns, bruising, broken capillaries.
LAVENDER ESSENTIAL OIL lavendula angustifolia - Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic, Balancing, wound Healing, Good for dry or Oily skin, Combination skin, Acne, Eczema, Sunburn, Cystic acne, Regenerating, Helping formation of scar tissue. Encouraging growth of skin cells
MYRRH ESSENTIAL OIL commiphora myrrha - Antibacterial, Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic, Astringent, Balancing, Regenerating, Good for Wound Healing, Acne, Dry, Chapped Skin, Oily, Skin, anti-aging, broken capillaries, Eczema Avoid during pregnancy.
PALMAROSA ESSENTIAL OIL Cymbopogon martini - Antibacterial, Anti-Fungal, Antiseptic, Cell regenerating, Good for Wound Healing, Acne, Dry Skin Mature Skin, Eczema, Wrinkles, broken Capillaries, Helping formation of scar tissue. Encouraging growth of skin cells.
PATCHOULI ESSENTIAL OIL pogostemon cablin - Anti-inflammatory, Anti-bacterial, Antifungal, Astringent, Contracts, tightens and binds tissues, reducing secretions or discharges, Good for aging, sagging skin, itchy, inflamed skin, Acne, Chapped skin, Eczema, Wrinkles, Scars, Oily and congested skin.
ROSE ABSOLUTE rosa damascena- Antibacterial, antifungal, antiseptic, Anti-inflammatory, Astringent, Contracts, tightens and binds tissues, reducing secretions or discharges, Regenerating, Good for broken capillaries, oily skin, mature skin, sensitive skin, Helping formation of scar tissue. Encouraging growth of skin cells.
ROSEMARY (VERBENONE) ESSENTIAL OIL Rosmarinus officinalis ct verbenone – Antibacterial, Cell regenerative, Stimulating Good for Acne, scars, aging skin, Avoid during pregnancy or with epilepsy.
TEA TREE ESSENTIAL OIL melaleuca alternifolia - Antibacterial, Antifungal, Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic, Good for Acne, Oily skin, cystic acne Possible skin irritant.
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​Vegetable and nut oils also known as Carrier oils are used to dilute essential oils and “carry” them to your skin. That is because essential oils are potent and can cause irritation when applied directly to your skin. Most carrier oils are unscented or lightly scented and do not interfere with an essential oil's therapeutic properties each are good sources of vitamins, essential fatty acids and proteins which aid the skin in maintaining health, elasticity and tone.

​​ALMOND OIL (SWEET) Light texture, all skin types, Itching, Dry skin, Inflammation, Burns, Thread veins, Chapped, Irritated skin
APRICOT KERNEL OIL Light texture, all skin types, Dry & aging skin, prematurely aging skin, Sensitive skin, Inflammation, easily absorbed for facial applications
AVOCADO OIL Heavy texture, usually mixed with other oils, all skin Types especially dry and dehydrated, Penetrating, Regenerative, highly therapeutic contains protein, amino acids, high levels of vitamins A, D and E. Mature & aging skin, Dry skin, Eczema, Improves elastin, Damaged skin, Wrinkles, natural sun protection, Eczema.
JOJOBA OIL (Pronounced ho-ho-ba) Light texture; Anti-inflammatory, Mimics sebum, unclogs pores, Eczema, Psoriasis, all skin types, Acne, Dry skin Inflammation, easily absorbed.
ROSA MOSQUETA OIL (ROSE HIP SEED) Usually added to other carriers at rate of 10-20%, Dry, scaly, dull skin, Psoriasis, Hyperpigmentation, beneficial in tissue regeneration, Scars, Aging, mature, prematurely aged skin, Wounds, Burns (including sunburn), Facial wrinkles, "crow’s feet", Stretch marks.
SESAME OIL Medium texture, all skin types, Psoriasis, Eczema, Natural Sun Protection, Softening, Dry skin, sensitive skin, antiaging
TAMANU OIL Medium texture, Promotes formation of new tissues, Acne, Acne scars, Sunburn, Dry skin, eczema, Antioxidant, Antiaging.
 

​A Hydrosol is the water left behind after extracting an essential oil from a plant through water/steam distillation. Hydrosols contain the water-soluble constituents of the plant and retain small amounts of essential oil. Hydrosols have similar properties to essential oils but are much less concentrated and gentler on the skin.

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LAVENDER HYDROSOL – Anti-Inflammatory, reduces swelling and inflammation, Good for Acne, Eczema, Itchy skin, aging skin, sunburn, Helping formation of scar tissue. Encouraging growth of skin cells, Wound Healing
​LEMON BALM HYDROSOL- Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic, antifungal, Acne, Oily skin, Eczema
ROSE HYDROSOL- Anti-inflammatory, Astringent, Contracts, tightens, and binds tissues, reducing secretions or discharges, Regenerating Helping formation of scar tissue, Encouraging growth of skin cells Sensitive skin, Acne, Mature skin, Combination skin,
ROSEMARY (VERBENONE) HYDROSOL – Stimulating, scars, antiaging, Acne.
SAGE HYDROSOL Astringent Causing contraction of the tissues, binding. Influences, the vital contractility of cell walls, condenses the tissues, making them denser and firmer, and arrests discharges. Acne
YARROW HYDROSOL - Anti-inflammatory, reduces swelling and inflammation, Acne, Eczema, Regenerating, Wound Healing, aging skin, Encouraging growth of skin cells.

Other Useful ingredients
ALOE VERA GEL Aloe barbadensis Promotes healing and skin cell renewal, natural anti-inflammatory & moisturizer.
APPLE CIDER VINEGAR - Restores the natural acid balance and neutralizes the alkalinity of soap for skin. Acts as an astringent on the skin causing contraction of the tissues, binding. Influences, the vital contractility of cell walls, condenses the tissues, making them denser and firmer, and arrests discharges.
CLAY is one of earth's oldest known skin cleansers. Its high mineral content, drawing powers and corrective properties make it useful for treating problem skin as well as superior deep cleaning. Excellent for blackheads and clogged pores.
HONEY General skin care and to help with more serious conditions such as eczema, Bacteria cannot live in honey, Natural preservative properties, naturally acid-balanced, neutral on the skin, hydrating
​UNSCENTED LIQUID SOAP BASE Gentle and effective with proven mildness
Free of sulfates, preservatives, and consists of the most simple, natural, biodegradable ingredients.

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​​Always use clean sterilized bottles and jars to mix and store your facial care products. Glass containers are preferable and a simple label stating what the product is and when you created it affixed to the bottle is always helpful. Small funnels and measuring cups with a spout are helpful when transferring ingredients from one bottle to another.
 
Step 1: Cleanse
This is a gentle cleanser leaves your skin soft, smooth, clean, and nourished. You just need liquid Unscented liquid soap base, essential oils, and carrier oils. The best part is you can customize the essential oils and carrier oil in this recipe according to your skin type. This face wash does not contain any harsh ingredients, so it is perfect for all skin types.

Blemishes and Oily skin: 8 drops Tea Tree essential oil, 4 drops Cedarwood essential Oil, 4 drops Lavender essential oil, 4 drops Geranium essential oil, 2 teaspoons Jojoba oil
Anti-Aging/ scars: 5 drops Frankincense Essential Oil, 5 drops Carrot essential oil, 10 drops Palmarosa essential oil,1 teaspoon Rosa Mosqueta oil, 1 teaspoon Seasme oil
Combination skin: 5 drops Geranium essential oil,10 drops Lavender essential oil, 5 drops Myrrh essential oil, 2 teaspoons Almond oil
Dry skin: 5 drops Myrrh essential oil, 5 drops Chamomile essential oil, 5 drops Lavender essential oil, 5 drops Palmarosa essential oil 1 teaspoons Apricot oil, 1 teaspoon Avocado oil
Sensitive skin: 8 drops Chamomile essential oil, 10 drops Lavender essential oil, 2 drops Rose absolute, 1 teaspoons Sesame oil
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FACIAL CLEANSER
In an 8 oz bottle:
1) 1 to 2 teaspoons Vegetable/Nut Oil or Infused Oil of your choice
2) Add 20 drops (maximum) Essential Oils of your choice, choose one or more but use only 20 drops total of essential oil, shake essential oil and vegetable oil together first
3) Fill rest of bottle with Unscented Liquid soap base, shake well

​Step 2: Tone
A facial toner is a quick, absorbing liquid that helps to remove excess dirt, traces of oil and makeup, correct and balance the pH of your skin, and control acne, minimizing the look of pores and preparing the skin to receive the serums and moisturizers to come. Your Homemade Facial Toner can be customized to your skin type with Hydrosol, giving you that natural glow you have been looking for! Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) helps to regulate the pH balance of the skin, can be used for all skin types, is antibacterial and has anti-inflammatory properties. For oily and acne-prone skin, ACV helps to treat acne and reduce redness. For dry and normal skin, ACV helps to exfoliate skin and reduce wrinkles.
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For normal to dry skin: Mix 1/3-part vinegar to 2/3-part Hydrosol of your choice.
For oily and acne-prone skin: mix 1/2-part vinegar and 1/2 Hydrosol.
Blemishes and Oily skin: 2 Tablespoons Lemon Balm hydrosol, 1 Tablespoon Sage Hydrosol, 1 Tablespoon Yarrow Hydrosol, 4 Tablespoons Apple cider Vinegar
Anti-Aging/ scars: 3 Tablespoons Rose Hydrosol, 2 Tablespoons Rosemary Hydrosol, 3 tablespoons Apple Cider Vinegar
Combination skin: 5 Tablespoons Lavender Hydrosol, 3 Tablespoons Apple Cider Vinegar
Dry skin/ Sensitive skin: 3 Tablespoons Lavender Hydrosol, 2 Tablespoons Rose Hydrosol, 3 Tablespoons Apple Cider Vinegar
 
TONER OR AFTERSHAVE 2 oz Recipe
In a 2 oz Glass bottle

1. For normal to dry skin, mix 1/3-part vinegar (3 tbsp) to 2/3-part Hydrosol (5 tbsp).
2. For oily and acne-prone skin, mix 1/2-part vinegar (4 tbsp) and 1/2-part Hydrosol (4 tbsp).
3. Shake well and use morning and night after washing face, thoroughly moisten a cotton round. Gently wipe over cleansed face, neck, and chest, avoiding eye area.

Step 3: Serum 
A facial Serum is concentrated, balancing, targeted skincare treatment that soothes and nourishes skin providing fast absorbing, concentrated ingredients to create beautiful, glowing skin. Apply your Homemade Serum after cleansing but before moisturizing. The most common benefits include hydration, increased nourishment, brightening of the skin, and acne prevention. They also help in strengthening skin cells. Serums help balance and rejuvenate.

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Blemishes and Oily skin: 10 drops Chamomile essential oil, 10 drops Myrrh essential oil, 5 drops Geranium essential oil, 1 oz Jojoba oil
Anti-Aging/ scars: 2 teaspoons Rosa Mosqueta Oil, 2 teaspoons Avocado oil, 1 teaspoon Tamanu oil, 5 drops Frankincense essential oil, 5 drops Carrot essential oil, 5 drops Lavender essential oil, 5 drops Helchrysum essential oil, 2 drops Rose or Geranium
Dry skin/ Sensitive skin: 5 drops Myrrh Essential oil,5 drops Palmarosa essential oil, 10 drops Chamomile essential oil, 2 teaspoons Avocado oil, 3 teaspoons Apricot oil
Combination skin: 10 drops Frankincense essential oil, 8 drops Lavender essential oil, 5 drops Geranium Essential oil 3 teaspoons Almond Oil, 3 teaspoons Jojoba Oil 
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Facial Serum 1 oz Recipe

1. In a 1 oz glass dropper bottle, add all essential oils equal to 25 drops

    2. Fill the bottle with Carrier oil or combination carrier oils of your choice  
   3. Use your Facial Serum morning and night. Apply a few drops a gentle massage into the entire face     and neck after you wash your face but before you apply moisturizer.

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​Step 4: Moisturize
Facial Oil as moisturizer maybe a new concept for you but let me just say oil is NOT the bad guy. In fact, our skin needs oil and absorbs it better and faster than a cream or lotion. Using a facial oil helps keep moisture in the skin while protecting it from the environmental damage. Finding the right carrier oil that works for you is the key. You can add essential oils according to your skin type for a customized blend. Every face (neck and chest, too) needs a moisturizer on a daily basis. Moisturizers’ primary function is to help keep all the nourishing oils from your serum on your skin.

Blemishes and Oily skin:  10 drops Chamomile essential oil, 5 drops Cypress essential oil, 5 drops Tea Tree essential oil, 3 drops Geranium essential oil, Jojoba oil
Anti-Aging/ scars:  15 drops Frankincense essential oil, 5drops drops Helichrysum essential oil, 2 drops Rose absolute, Apricot oil
Dry skin/ Sensitive skin: 15 drops Palmarosa essential oil, 10 drops Chamomile essential oil, Apricot oil
Combination skin: 10 drops Frankincense essential oil, 15 drops Lavender essential oil, Jojoba Oil
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2oz Facial Oil Moisturizer
Instructions in a 2 oz glass dropper bottle

1. Add up to 25 drops of essential oils of your choice to glass dropper bottle.
2. Fill glass dropper bottle with carrier oils of your choice.
3. Screw dropper top on. Shake well.
4. Use morning and night after each facial wash, or as needed. I find about 4-6 drops is enough to moisturize my skin.

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​FACIAL Mask
I find that giving myself a weekly Facial mask helps to deep clean my skin and is a refreshing and relaxing time to devote to myself for a little extra bit of self-care. The basic recipe is simply combining your choice of Clay mixed with your choice of liquids. Your choices of liquids can include items like, lemon Juice, Hydrosols, Aloe Gel, Herbal Tea, leave on for about 20 minutes, then rinse with warm water.
Basic recipe for Facial Mask
2 teaspoons Clay powder of your choice
2 teaspoons liquid of your choice
Mix together in a small clean dish or in your hand.
 
Blemishes and Oily skin:  Bentonite Clay or Green Clay, Rosemary Hydrosol, Aloe Gel, Lemon Balm Hydrosol, Lavender Hydrosol, Sage Hydrosol
Anti-Aging/ scars:  Pink Clay, Rose Hydrosol, Lavender Hydrosol
Dry skin/ Sensitive skin: Pink Clay or Rhassoul Clay, Lavender Hydrosol
Combination skin: Green Clay, Rosemary Hydrosol, Aloe gel
Honey Treatment: Apply a generous amount of Honey with your hands. Repeatedly place your hands on your face and pull away. The pulling away action is key. As you continue to repeat this action the honey becomes drier and tackier and helps to draw impurities out of the skin. 

Once you start making and using your own Homemade Skincare products your skin will look and feel amazing.  Your heart can feel good about taking the initiative to make your own Natural Chemical free skincare products. These products are all paraben, sulfate, phthalate free. They are also free from petrochemicals, fillers, formaldehyde-releasing ingredients, propellants, or synthetic fragrance oils. All of ingredients are non-toxic. That is something to feel good about all while nourishing your skin!
 
REFERENCES:
Battaglia, Salvatore. The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy. Virginia, Queensland: The Perfect Potion. 1995.
Catty, Suzanne. Hydrosols, The Next Aromatherapy. Rochester, Vermont: Healing Arts Press. 2001.
Davis, Patricia. Aromatherapy an A - Z. Saffron Walden: The C. W. Daniel Company Ltd. 1998.
Hampton, Aubrey. What’s in Your Cosmetics?. Tucson, Arizona: Odonian Press. 1995.
Meadows, Julia. Natural Bodycare. New York: Sterling Publishing Co. Inc. 1998.
Rose, Jeanne. Jeanne Rose's Herbal Body Book. New York: The Berkley Publishing Group. 1976.
Rose, Jeanne. Jeanne Rose’s Kitchen Cosmetics. Berkeley, California: North Atlantic Books. 1990.
Sheppard-Hanger, Sylla. The Aromatherapy Practitioner Reference Manual, Vol. 1, Vol. 2. Tampa: Atlantic Institute of Aromatherapy. 1997.
Price, Shirley. The Aromatherapy Workbook. San Francisco: Thorsons. 1993.